Why: Grocery Cocktail & Social is a new place in downtown Vancouver for the 21-and-over crowd to imbibe more than just cocktails. It offers a light menu with sophisticated farmhouse fare and a place to gather after restaurants close.
Atmosphere: The space sits at Washington and Seventh streets, with a corner-market feel. The signage is easy to miss unless you’re looking for it. Large plate-glass windows on two sides allow natural light to flood in during the day. Evening lighting is kept subtle — imparting an intimate social personal and public sort of vibe, which I found unique to this establishment. Other than an old church pew used as bench seating along a window, chairs are antique schoolhouse style, paired with attractive butcher-block-style table tops. Original brick, black-painted I-beams, and sturdy wood support beams evoke different eras of construction with an industrial appeal. My favorite element was the mezzanine overlooking the space below through a chain link fence rail. The low ceiling and loft-like atmosphere are charming.
What I Tried: I tried the Creamed Eggs on Toast, the Grilled Romaine Hearts, and Dad’s Pork Tenderloin. My dining companion settled on the Griddle Burger and the Root Beer Glazed Sweet Potatoes topped with crispy shallots.
The highlight of my meal was the creamed eggs. The first bite was reminiscent of a meal my mother often made when I was a kid. Hard-cooked eggs were sliced thin and placed atop a short stack of thinly sliced, lightly toasted, rustic baguette and smothered in a deliciously rich white sauce. This was then topped with some truffle salt and sprigs of fresh watercress.
The romaine hearts were charred around the edges and covered in a creamy garlic vinaigrette. Capers added a touch of pickled flavor and an expertly cooked, over-easy egg rested atop the lettuce. A few crispy-fried anchovies completed the dish. I enjoyed the complexity of flavors this dish offered and found it a good alternative to a typical salad.
Dad’s Pork Tenderloins consisted of three pork medallions rubbed with Dijon, peppercorns and fennel, and cooked to a perfectly pink, juicy doneness in the center. The rub gave the pork an herbal quality at its edge with just a touch of spiciness that made its way into each bite. Cubed sweet potatoes cooked to a slightly firm texture in a bit of pork jus accompanied the pork.
My dining companion found the Griddle Burger, made with 6 ounces of seared sirloin on a ciabatta roll, very satisfying. Garlic mayonnaise, bacon, and jam were added — all in balance and complementary to the burger. Brabant potatoes were served with it instead of french fries and completed this farmhouse-themed burger perfectly.
I sampled the Root Beer Glazed Sweet Potatoes to compare them with the ones on my dish and did not find a huge difference in flavor. The glaze was pretty thin and did not adhere to the potatoes very well.
Menu Highlights Beyond What I Tried: After trying the grilled romaine, I’m looking forward to trying the Smoky Braised Hearty Greens. Oven-Roasted Cauliflower with smoked paprika and romesco is on the menu, as is the increasingly popular Bourbon Chicken Liver Mousse, which is quickly becoming a favorite of regulars. Crispy Fried Chicken Wings are served with coleslaw and cast-iron corn bread with spicy honey. The only dessert offered at the time of my visit was bread pudding, which they were out of, but I was told more desserts are planned.
Other Observations: Instead of a traditional server type uniform, the staff members sport a clean-cut hipster look, which I found ideally suited the concept and vibe of the Grocery Cocktail & Social. Service was friendly and efficient, and the atmosphere encourages an unrushed visit.
Cost: Main menu items cost between $6 and $13. Sides are $5 each. Cocktails generally cost $6 to $10. Beer is sold by the pint for $5. Cider is $10 for 16.9 ounces. Wine is $7 to $8 per glass.
Hours: 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. Monday through Sunday; Happy Hour is 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. daily.
Where: 115 W. Seventh St., Vancouver.
Contact: 360-258-1324 or www.thegrocerycocktailsocial.com and on Facebook.
Health Score: Grocery Cocktail & Social has received a pre-opening inspection and is scheduled for a routine inspection in the near future. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
