Why: The Hoosegow is the latest to occupy the restaurant space just south of the Clark County Courthouse. The bistro is open weekdays only, serving breakfast and lunch. The menu focuses on barbecue favorites using meat smoked on premises and it offers a few other items as well. There are plans to extend business hours when a beer and wine permit is issued.
Atmosphere: The entry consists of a few bistro tables and the bar, which is illuminated by canning jar pendant fixtures. Most seating is located in two rooms to the back of the space where tables set for two to four may be reconfigured for different-sized groups and lighting is limited to florescent ceiling fixtures. Handsome wood flooring gives the space a touch of sophistication which is contrasted by the “hoosegow” theme imparted by rough wood, framed jail prints on the walls and a muted gray-and-yellow color palette trimmed in black. The overall look might be considered modern-meets-Old West, warmed by the appetizing smoky aroma wafting through the restaurant. The vibe is subdued.
Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Where: 609 W. 11th St., Vancouver.
Telephone: 360-836-5268.
Online: Facebook is another source of current information on The Hoosegow (listed as The Hoosegow Barbecue Restaurant).
Health score: The Hoosegow received a perfect score of zero on Sept. 26. The Clark County Public Health Department closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Where: 609 W. 11th St., Vancouver.
Telephone: 360-836-5268.
Online: Facebook is another source of current information on The Hoosegow (listed as The Hoosegow Barbecue Restaurant).
Health score: The Hoosegow received a perfect score of zero on Sept. 26. The Clark County Public Health Department closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
What I tried: I settled on the Tri-Tip Sandwich which comes on a fresh ciabatta roll supplied by local bakery Sugar and Salt. I also sampled the chili topped with cheese. The sandwich consisted of thinly sliced beef topped with coleslaw. The menu indicates barbecue sauce is on the sandwich as well, though I did not see or taste it. I did detect something on the bun that reminded me of balsamic vinegar. The house-made coleslaw did not have much flavor beyond the cabbage and served as a garden-fresh element to the sandwich. Most of the meat, though smoky and tasty, was on the tough end of the spectrum, more well-done than medium-rare. The ciabatta roll was airy and flavorless. I appreciated that it was not tough or spongy, but it did not hold together well. Nor did it add the desired artisan bread quality to the sandwich — I think with some refining, it could get there. In my opinion, this is one of those sandwiches one must be careful about putting on the menu — the commitment to making it right has to result in nothing short of outstanding.
The chili was served in a condiment cup alongside the sandwich, which amounted to a few spoonfuls. It contained a variety of beans and chunks of meat and was more stewlike than soupy in consistency. The flavor was mild and slightly sweet. The absence of over-the-top flavors imparted an appealing, healthful quality. Unfortunately, the meat included in the chili was tough.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The pastrami sandwich with cheese and mustard sounded intriguing, as did the chicken salad sandwich, into which pecans and dried cranberries are incorporated. For breakfast, the frittata sounded delicious. Sides include regular and sweet potato fries and macaroni and cheese.
Other observations: The wait staff is attentive and friendly and Steve, the owner, follows up at tables to greet diners and inquire about their dining experience.
Cost: Breakfast selections range from $1.50 up to $6.50. Lunch items are $3.50 to $6.50. Sides cost $2 to $4.
