Why: Dirty Hands Brewery opened Nov. 9 in downtown Vancouver offering another brew-oriented casual dining spot for the 21-and-older crowd. In addition to a beer-focused menu, a couple of wines and cider, the menu presents a unique twist on pub fare from basic and expected to complex and unusual.
Atmosphere: The space, which recently housed a wedding gown shop (and, originally, The Columbian,) has been transformed into a modern-style pub. It has somewhat of a Southwest vibe, enforced by yellow, black and red foundation colors. Rusted corrugated metal decorated with license plates fronts the deli-style open kitchen. Seating consists of tall bistro tables and chairs as well as standard-height tables and chairs. There are a few chairs at the bar counter and outdoor seating is available, too. A large-screen TV provides entertainment and music is piped in at a lively volume.
What I tried: I sampled the Artichoke & Spinach Dip and the Deviled Eggs from the starter selections. I also tried the New Mexico Green Chili, and the Sicilian, which is an Italian sausage hot sandwich with peppers, onions, tomato sauce and provolone.
The artichoke-spinach dip was quite thick with an emphasis on cream cheese, which remained mostly unmixed throughout. Spinach was obvious, yet the artichoke was minimal.
I was happy to find the deviled eggs on the menu but I was disappointed with Dirty Hands’ rendition of them. They are made with a sriracha mayonnaise and topped with green onion (scallions) and crushed kettle chips. The filling in the eggs was a bit too creamy and absent that distinguishable horseradish character which I find so appealing. I thought perhaps the heat from the sriracha would replace the horseradish, but this was not the case. The toppings seemed out of place and their firmness, contrasted with the creaminess of the filling, was not appetizing.
The chili is comprised of pork, green chilies, garlic, lime, and cilantro. This chili is New Mexico green chili defined, with complementary ingredients which represent a Southwest flavor apart from Tex-Mex. The consistency was more watery than that of a tomato-based chili.
The Sicilian was a tasty mix of ingredients which were liberally included on the bun. As with many sandwiches of this type it was a challenge to eat due to its size and the fact that the longer it takes, the soggier the bun becomes.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: The Brewschetta, though the name suggests differently, is simply tomatoes and mozzarella on country bread.
The Kettle Chips Nachos is a different take on traditional nachos. It combines Monterey Jack cheese, bacon, scallions, and ranch dressing with the chips.
The Dirty Dog sounded like an adventurous departure from the basic dog. It is topped with macaroni salad, baked beans, and crinkle-cut fries.
The Duck Hash (duck leg confit, potatoes, caramelized onions, and a sunny-side-up duck egg) is unique.
If you appreciate the crossover of beer to food, the Brewmaster’s Meatloaf may interest you. The meatloaf is served with carrots, asparagus, mashed potatoes and beer gravy.
Other observations: Until approximately five weeks ago, Dirty Hands Brewery’s food was provided by a caterer. Finding this was not an ideal setup, the owners have since portioned some of the floor space as an open kitchen in order to make their own food for diners.
On my visit the wait staff was still in training, leaving some room for improvement.
Cost: Starters and small plates cost $3 to $12. Soups and salads start at $4 and top out at $12. Hot dogs (regular, kielbasa, bratwurst, and Italian sausage) are $6 to $8. House specialties are $8 to $14. Happy Hour menu items range from $3 to $5.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday; 4 to 11 p.m. Saturday. Happy Hour is 4 to 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close.
Where: 114 E. Evergreen Blvd., Vancouver.
Telephone: 360-258-0413. Dirty Hands also has a Facebook page where you can find up-to-date information on events and live entertainment.
Health score: Dirty Hands Brewery has received a Pre-Opening Inspection and is scheduled to receive a routine inspection in the near future. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
