When it comes to the romance of home-baked bread, nothing beats the notion of sourdough. It’s the Holy Grail of doughs, much like DIY charcuterie and naturally thickened jams.
Truth is, I like sourdough bread when someone else makes it — say, the corner French bakery. It takes dedication to nurse the slurry of flour and water into a mature, sour, puddinglike glop that can yield a great exterior and those characteristic big, gaping holes inside. The machismo of superb sourdough (and, trust me, it’s a competitive venue of baking) is about using no added yeast, relying on airborne spores to do the job.
Sourdough is so beloved yet so demanding that Cook’s Illustrated recently suggested home bakers forgo a starter to save time and simply add vinegar for that characteristic acidic taste. I say: Please don’t, on both accounts. That is what some commercial bakers used to do to hasten the process and sell regular bread as sourdough.
Sponge-based bread for me, as both a home baker and professional pastry chef, is the perfect hybrid. It’s a relatively old frontier in need of re-exploration, and if you’re not much of a bread baker, consider it the right place for you to jump in. Sponge-starter bread is not quite sourdough, yet it’s way more interesting than a regular or straight bread dough. To my mind, it’s also more flavorful than no-knead bread.