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Dining Out: Burgers far beyond the basics

The Columbian
Published: April 1, 2011, 12:00am

Why: Family-owned and operated Burger Bungalow, which opened in January, specializes in gourmet burgers made with a third of a pound of local, organic beef.

You might not recognize the burgers by their unconventional names — such as Wannahauckalugi Burger and Bleu Fungi — but the ingredients of some might already be familiar. With 10 burgers to choose from, plus a monthly special, there’s likely something to please any burger aficionado.

There’s also a list of add-ons that include guacamole, mushrooms, pineapple, egg and other fixings.

Atmosphere: The space, formerly occupied by the now-defunct Wingman, hasn’t been significantly altered. It’s still painted in light blue, accented by red and trimmed in oak with booth seating. The no-frills decor keeps the emphasis on the menu and offers a tidy environment. There’s also a large-screen television to entertain diners as they eat.

What I tried: I decided on the Mechanical Bull burger with Bungalow Chips.

The Bungalow Chips are similar to ruffled potato chips, but these are freshly fried, producing a mix that ranges from chewy to crispy. Hot from the fryer, they are then lightly seasoned. I enjoyed the flavor and variation of each chip. Bungalow Sauce, a housemade sauce with a touch of sweet and a tangy finish, is served as a dip. It was delicious on the chips.

The Mechanical Bull burger is made with Bungalow Sauce, Cattleman BBQ sauce, pepper-jack cheese, pepper-bacon strips and homemade onion straws. It was served alongside a leaf of lettuce and a dill pickle spear. Sauce had dripped down the sides of the burger like a larger-than-life photo off the cover of a food magazine — but this was real, and it proved to be really messy.

Unlike in many gourmet burgers I’ve had, the beef patty did not dominate this experience. Each of the components had its place in the spotlight as I worked my way through the burger. The onions posed a bit of a challenge, much like long spaghetti in an Italian dish, but the overall experience was appetizing and satisfying.

Highlights beyond what I tried: The Blazin Chili Burger, made with pasilla green chiles, chipotle mayo, pepper-bacon strips and Swiss cheese, sounded adventurous to me, as did the Hall of Famer, made with Bungalow Sauce, a cheddar cheese-filled burger patty, lettuce, tomato and onion.

Kids will find mini corn dogs, smaller burgers and a few other items from which to choose.

Other observations: Because the food is made to order, there’s a short wait time, and meals are brought to the table. The staff was friendly and exceptionally attentive at tending to the dining room.

Cost: Burgers come with a medium soft drink and either Bungalow Chips or fries for between $8.49 and $11.79. Add-ons range from 50 cents to $1.79. Kids’ choices are $3.29 and come with a 12-ounce soda or milk and fries, Bungalow Chips or a fruit cup.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday. 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Telephone: 360-828-1458.

Where: 11215 N.E. 28th St., Suite 1, Vancouver.

Health Score: Burger Bungalow has received a preopening inspection and is due for a routine inspection in the near future. For information from Clark County Public Health, call 360-397-8428.

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