Why: Daddy D’s Southern Style BBQ is tucked inside the Shell station on Fourth Plain Road and Auto Mall Drive, but don’t let the location fool you.
Southern cooking and hospitality distinguish Daddy D’s from the fast food sold at most gas station convenience stores.
Owned and operated by the Vercher family, Daddy D’s makes most of its dishes on the premises and from scratch. Among the specialties are the pulled pork sandwich, beef brisket and the ribs, which are seasoned with a homemade rub before they are slow cooked on the barbecue for five hours.
Atmosphere: A few bar and bistro seats with plenty of elbow room carve out a bit of unrushed ambience for diners at Daddy D’s, despite the hubbub of activity at the gas station. But, that doesn’t mean you have to linger. Diners place their orders at the counter and can either stay and eat or ask for the order to go.
The restaurant’s tidy kitchen is visible to diners who want to watch their meal being prepared.
What I tried: My dining companion and I tried the Pulled Pork Sandwich, Ribs, Potato Salad and Baked Beans. For dessert, we sampled the 7UP Bundt cake and the Sweet Potato Pie.
The sandwich was made on a sesame seed hamburger bun, piled high with big pieces of smoky-flavored pork, which was tender after being cooked for eight hours and had a minimal amount of fat. Homemade barbecue sauce adds a touch of sweetness. The sauce isn’t at all fiery or heavy handed with its blend of seasoning, which simply complements the delicious meat in the same way that salt enhances many foods.
Those who like a spicy sauce can get that, too, if they know to ask. Whoever is cooking, can kick up the heat to satisfy.
The Ribs were infused with the same smoky essence as the pulled pork. The meat varied from tender soft to a dryer candied texture, which I found appetizing.
Daddy D’s Potato Salad and Baked Beans are traditional accompaniments to the menu’s selection of barbecued meats. Of the two, I thought the Potato Salad was the more unusual. It had large chunks of potato and a light classic flavor that didn’t overwhelm. It also included sweet relish, eggs, mayonnaise, mustard and Daddy D’s special seasoning. Daddy D’s buys canned beans, but Vercher personalizes them by adding his own ingredients.
Both desserts made a good finish to our meal. The Sweet Potato Pie tastes something like pumpkin pie, only I found it to be sweeter and less smooth in texture. The crust was more moist than flaky.
If you prefer a dense cake to a light and fluffy one, you will likely enjoy the 7UP Bundt Cake. The cake flavor is somewhere between white and yellow. It’s then drizzled with a white icing that has a lemon-lime flavor and topped off with small chocolate flakes.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Collard greens complete the selection of side dishes. Along with ribs, pork and brisket, the restaurant sells chicken and beef hot links by the pound and half pound.
Other observations: Bottled water is available, but any other beverage must be purchased from Shell’s convenience store. Though Daddy D’s doesn’t measure strictly when serving meals, I found the portions to be very generous.
Cost: Sandwiches range from $4.99 to $6.99. Dinner and combination plates start at $8.99 and go as high as $14.99 for a selection of three meats. The most expensive item on the menu is a full slab of ribs for $23.99. Hours: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Closed on Sunday and Monday during the winter. The restaurant is open on Mondays during daylight savings.
Telephone: 360-892-4418.
Where: 7204 N.E. Fourth Plain Road, Vancouver.
Health score: Daddy D’s received a score of 0 on Oct. 1. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
Editor’s note: A reference to the restaurant’s location was previously incorrect. It is inside the Shell station on Fourth Plain Road near Auto Mall Drive.
