The Plainsman earns its staying power

Why: The Plainsman Restaurant has been in business for over 30 years serving homemade American meals in classic, diner style. It is one of the few holdouts that does not need a fancy new remodel to keep its loyal diners coming back — or to attract the curious that take note of the parking lot which is often full of cars.

What I tried: I tried the French toast with and over-easy egg and bacon, and my dining companion had the biscuits and gravy with hash browns and bacon on our breakfast visit. We also got a homemade cinnamon roll to go.

All the food arrived piping hot. The bacon was meaty and fried to a slightly chewy finish, and it was not excessively greasy. The over-easy egg was cooked just right. Score! I recently went to a chain restaurant that failed at this simple preparation. The French toast was generously egg-battered and cooked to an appetizing finish with plenty of melting butter atop and an endless supply of syrup from a dispenser instead of the stingy, portioned amount often encountered at other establishments. The only improvement here would have been to heat it, as well.

My dining companion’s breakfast was equally appetizing to him. He noted there was plenty of gravy to last to the final bite of biscuit, and the hash browns were fried to a golden crispy exterior and fluffy interior.

The cinnamon roll did not come with frosting of any kind. I found it to be closer to a donut shop’s version than to a baker’s version and thought some sweet cream cheese frosting would bump it up a notch.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: Pancakes, waffles, omelets, chicken fried steak, corned beef hash, steak and pork chops are among the breakfast options. Breakfast sides include oatmeal, cold cereal, applesauce and fruit. An oven-roasted turkey dinner includes whipped potatoes and giblet gravy, dressing, cranberry sauce, bread and dessert. It also comes with either soup or salad. A breaded veal steakette, a mushroom burger steak, liver and onions, and top sirloin are on the dinner menu. Seafood choices include shrimp, scallops, oysters, and a seafood combo that also includes halibut. Prime rib is served every Friday night. Sundaes, milkshakes and homemade pie provide dessert options.

Atmosphere: The standalone restaurant is big enough to feed a hungry crowd but not so big as to lose a cozy, homely appeal. The main dining area is sectioned by interior walls that give both booth and table seating a more intimate experience than an open, spacious floor would provide. Elevated seating is available at the counter across from the kitchen and server’s area, and there are tables adjacent to the counter. The ceiling has some unusual pitches, and wood beams define some of the angles, imparting a somewhat modular feel to the construction. A car enthusiast theme is prevalent throughout the restaurant. Scores of license plates from across the United States decorate the walls along with other automotive related photos and decor items. Ceiling fans with lights provide lighting, as do large windows along the dining perimeter.

Other observations: The waitstaff is very friendly and attentive. You get your money’s worth, as portions are large. Breakfast is served all day. I appreciated the obvious connection to the place for regular diners and noted not one person had a cellphone out the entire time of my Sunday morning visit — which I thought was one of the best portrayals of The Plainsman.

Cost: Most breakfast meals cost between $4.99 and $10.99 with steak and pork chop options between $9.95 and $13.25. Breakfast sides are $1 to $4.35. Dinner selections cost $9.95 to $16.25. Beverages range from $1.35 to $3.95. Dessert options are $2.25 to $5.15. Whole, homemade pies cost $8.49 for cream pies and $8.99 for fruit pies. Kids menu items cost $5.45 to $6.25.