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News / Life / Clark County Life

Flavors as large as Texas at The Smokin’ Oak

By Karen Livingston for The Columbian
Published: December 22, 2017, 6:00am
5 Photos
Jalapeño pinto beans, left, are shown with the “The Fatty” sandwich (brisket, pulled pork and sausage) and potato salad at The Smokin’ Oak in downtown Vancouver.
Jalapeño pinto beans, left, are shown with the “The Fatty” sandwich (brisket, pulled pork and sausage) and potato salad at The Smokin’ Oak in downtown Vancouver. Ariane Kunze/The Columbian Photo Gallery

Why: The Smokin’ Oak recently opened up in downtown Vancouver. It is easy to miss if you are looking for a restaurant front because it sits back from the street. What would be the parking lot is occupied by two ginormous smokers wherein all the smoked menu items are made, utilizing a family recipe. The small inconvenience of finding parking elsewhere is worth the Texas-style barbecue experience provided by The Smokin’ Oak whether you stop in with friends or the whole family. House cocktails, full bar options and high quality, exclusive smoked menu items are available from 3 p.m. to close, six days a week.

Atmosphere: Just inside the entry, the bar wraps around the center of the smartly designed space. Family dining is to the right where you can also view the open kitchen. The left portion of the restaurant provides dining for the over-21 crowd where there are also dart boards for hands-on entertainment. Seating is available at the bar and booths along the perimeter, and tables and chairs fill in the space between. Brick and wood faced walls give the space an aged feel and decorative wood bins hold wood and add to the overall saloon-inspired, lodge vibe.

What I tried: My dining companions and I tried The Smoke Stack plate, which comes with sliced brisket, spare ribs, pulled pork and sausage, and two sides (also white bread, pickles and onion, which are free upon request). We tried the potato salad, mac ‘n’ cheese, collard greens, smoked beets and buffalo cauliflower. To drink, we had the Huck Press cocktail made with wild-picked huckleberry house-infused Crater Lake vodka and house huckleberry syrup, and the Ol’ Smoky, which combines High West Campfire with house-smoked bitters and Demerara in a bourbon barrel-smoked glass, which gives it a delicious smoky essence. I thought the Huck Press was unique, not overly sweet and refreshing.

All the meats were juicy, smoky and scrumptiously tender. The short ribs had a slightly spicy kick to their flavor. Each side had a one-of-a-kind quality and it was difficult to pick a favorite because they were all superb. The smoked beets are prepared with chevre, balsamic glaze and chives. The buffalo cauliflower is smothered in spicy buffalo sauce and served with a bleu cheese dipping sauce. The collard greens have bacon and French-fried onions incorporated. Even though the mac ‘n’ cheese is simple, it leaves a sharp cheddar flavor on every bite. The Smokin’ Oak’s potato salad is defined by dill and is a creamier version instead of super chunky.

Menu highlights beyond what I tried: A half chicken is also among the smoked meat options. Sides include jalapeno beans, coleslaw and corn bread. Appetizers include a Frito pie, Texas chili and nachos loaded with all the fixings include chopped brisket or pulled pork. The smoked portobello sandwich made with smoked tomato aioli, tomato, onion and spring mix sounded delicious.

Other observations: Simply stated, “The Smokin’ Oak hits the mark perfectly in all aspects. We will be well fed and Portlanders will be very jealous.”

Cost: Appetizers cost $6.50 to $12. Sandwiches are $11 to $18. Plates range from $16.50 to $28.50. Salads cost $4 to $11. Sides cost $2 and $4. Dessert is under construction — at present Otter Pops are available at 4 for $2.

Happy Hour menu items cost $6 to $8 and drinks range from $4 to $6. Cocktails range from $7 to $20. Wines are $6 to $12 by the glass or $24 to $44 per bottle. Spirits cost $6 to $35. Draft brews are $5 and $6. Bottled beers cost $4 and $5.

Dining Out Review: The Smokin’ Oak

Hours: 3 p.m. to midnight. Tuesday through Saturday. 3 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Happy Hour is 3 to 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close every day.

Telephone: 360-433-2755

Where: 501 Columbia St., Vancouver.

Web: thesmokinoakpit.com

Health score: The Smokin’ Oak has received a pre-opening inspection and is scheduled for a routine inspection in the near future. Zero is a perfect score, and Clark County Public Health closes restaurants with a score of 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.

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