These days, the ubiquitous honey bear might not cause us to stop and give thanks.
Sure, honey might sweeten our tea or Greek yogurt, but that pales in comparison to the reaction the golden nectar might have inspired in ancient peoples at a time when sweetness of this magnitude was incredibly rare. Imagine how wide their eyes got at just one drop of the intense syrup on their tongues, especially after risking the stingers of bees protecting their hives!
Perhaps the best indication of honey’s lofty position in the ancient world is its significance in religion. Hindus consider it an elixir of immortality. Buddha is said to have been fed honey by a monkey on one of his forest retreats. And the god of the Bible describes the promised land to Moses as one of free-flowing milk and honey, a symbol of both abundance and completion.
It is for this reason that at this time of year, Jews commemorate the new year by the Jewish calendar by nibbling on apples dipped in honey.
While the honey in that little plastic bear is perfectly fine for your morning cup of tea, might I suggest you seek some good, old-fashioned raw honey for this Rosh Hashana-themed ice cream?
The former is an amalgam of myriad nectars that are boiled down to a uniform flavor and sweetness. But raw honey tells the story of what one colony of bees might have feasted, from orange blossoms to cactus flowers, buckwheat to clover.
These dynamic honeys are complex in flavor, perfect when making something as simple as a honeycomb candy ice cream. They have the power to transport us back to the days when squeezing a dollop of honey on your tongue was an act of pure luxury and gratitude.
Apples and Honeycomb Ice Cream
Start to finish: 5 hours (1 hour active), plus freezing; Servings: 6
For the custard:
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons skim milk powder
⅔ cup sugar, divided
6 large egg yolks
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
For the honeycomb candy:
¾ cup sugar
¼ cup water
1½ tablespoons raw honey
2 tablespoons corn syrup
2 teaspoons baking soda
For the apples:
3 large Granny Smith apples, peeled and diced into ½-inch cubes
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup raw honey
Splash of bourbon (optional)
Pinch of salt
In a medium saucepan over medium, bring the heavy cream, milk, milk powder and half of the sugar to a gentle simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely.
In a separate bowl, whisk the yolks and remaining sugar for this step. Whisk in 1/3 of the hot cream mixture, then pour the entire mixture back into the saucepan. Place the saucepan back on low heat and stir until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon (about 170 degrees). Remove from the heat, stir in vanilla and salt, then strain into a heat-safe container. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
For the candy, line a large baking sheet with kitchen parchment.
In a large saucepan, combine the sugar, water, honey and corn syrup. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain an enthusiastic simmer and cook until the mixture registers 296 degrees on a candy thermometer. Remove the pan from the heat and gently sprinkle in the baking soda. It will start to double and triple in volume. Don’t be alarmed! Pour onto the prepared baking sheet and allow to cool at room temperature for 30 to 40 minutes.
Break the candy into pieces, then put it in a large zip-close plastic bag. Bash the candy with a rolling pin into small pieces, about the size of granola. Store in the freezer.
For the honeyed apples, in a small saucepan over medium-high, bring the apples, sugar and honey to a boil. Cook the apples until softened but not mushy, about 10 minutes. Add the bourbon, if using, and salt. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
Set up your ice cream maker and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to churn the custard. Spoon the ice cream into a container. Fold in half of the candy and apples until evenly distributed. Spoon into bowls or cups, then offer remaining candy to sprinkle over the top.
Per serving: 650 calories; 320 calories from fat (49 percent of total calories); 36 g fat (21 g saturated; 1 g trans fats); 300 mg cholesterol; 540 mg sodium; 86 g carbohydrate; 3 g fiber; 82 g sugar; 7 g protein.
