MILAN — Reflecting on a Milan Fashion Week that marked the re-emergence of denim and the pre-eminence of the flat Birkenstock-inspired sandal, the question was bound to surface: Wherein lies luxury?
Milan designers, who crammed the usual six days of womenswear previews for next summer into 4½ ending Sunday, are clear on their response: in Italy’s artisanal traditions.
Whether reviving the dying art of brocade in the factories north of Milan, perfecting sartorial crafts to create new shapes, or honoring the centuries-old Murano glass-blowing traditions with textiles mimicking its melting striations, Milan designers touted Made in Italy, the calling card that distinguishes Italian brands and, more often than one might expect, raises ready-to-wear to an art form.
Giorgio Armani, who rolled out the summer collection that will herald his company’s 40th anniversary, is all about mastery — but avoids the term luxury altogether.
Perhaps the biggest trend out of Milan were light looks, effortless without being ethereal, from billowing floor-length Georgette dresses that trail on the ground to paper-thin trench coats, super-fine knitwear to translucent layering, over and under.
Max Mara focused on lightweight long trenches in florals that dissolved into animal prints, Roberto Cavalli kept pace with long sexy gowns, and Missoni created diaphanous, maxi-dresses from knitwear as light as air and as delicate as lace.
• 1970s FLASHBACK.
Designers took us on a psychedelic trip back to the fashion-rich 1970s.
The hippie looks were crafted out of suede — a must for next season — denim, and leather, with heavy helpings of fringe, beading, laser cut detailing, macrame and even granny squares. Get out the crochet needles!
• MILAN’S DENIM REVIVAL.
Who can forget the 1980s era of designer jeans, with the focus on tight and all eyes on the shapely tush.
The Milan Denim Revival of 2015 is nothing if not a relief from that stomach-sucking era. Italy’s designers have volleyed back with relaxed denim looks, turning their nose up at spandex and jeggings that have made tight jeans any (wo)man’s game.
Denim trousers are easy-to-wear, wide-legged and cropped — a look that renews emphasis on the shoe. Jeans are also dressed up, with lace panels, floral appliques, brocade beneath distressed tears and of course, rhinestones.
If there was a battle cry this season, it was ready-to-wear made easy-to-wear. With this, came an emphasis on active wear.
Some was dance-inspired, others took light-hearted cues from manga figures, decorated with sequined icons of ice cream and lips, and yet others derived from minimalist tendencies.
Dancer’s wraps have long come out of the studio, and here they are again on the street. Leggings and shape-hugging T’s gain new respectability under long trench coats. And big-fitting sweatshirts worn with wide-legged shorts from a distance can seem a well-coordinated dress.
• OF PLATFORM AND TENNIS SHOES.
Ten-inch heels will be rotating to the back of the closet next summer. To the fore: more forgiving wedge and platform sandals, and flats, including sneakers.
Much of the footwear may tip an evolutionary nod to Birkenstocks, but designers raised the game, by incorporating geometric elements into the platforms, and, of course, luxury materials.
