Why: Ulysses S. Grant, who would later become the 18th U.S. president, probably ate here. Of course, a lot’s changed in the 161 years since the log-core home was built as commander’s quarters for Fort Vancouver.
Grant never lived in the house that now bears his name, although word has it that he visited regularly as a young officer.
About six years ago, Jon and Suzy Taylor became custodians of the historic building when they rented the house and opened The Restaurant at the Historic Reserve, now renamed The Grant House, a nod to what locals call both the building and its restaurant.
As Suzy tells it, the couple were worried that an economic slouch in the travel industry would hurt their other business, the International Air and Hospitality Academy.
To diversify, they opened both the restaurant and a culinary arm of their academy, which is housed in the fort’s mess hall and Red Cross building.
The culinary academy and the restaurant came to have a symbiotic relationship, with students preparing some of the restaurant’s foods.
Atmosphere: Walk into The Grant House, and it’s as if you’ve stepped back in time.
A velvet settee beckons visitors in the main hallway. A bar, with a floor-to-ceiling wine rack, gives visitors reason to linger.
The main dining room, with two fireplaces and a scattering of dark wooden tables, invites quiet conversation. The sun room, where I dined, is bright and airy, with a view of the veranda and the restaurant’s kitchen garden.
Private dining is available for rental upstairs
What I tried: My dining companion and I started with the Hummus Plate and an order of calamari for an appetizer. For lunch, I had the Halibut and Chips, and my companion tried the Roasted Beet and Goat Cheese Ravioli.
The calamari, which the menu describes as dusted in rice flour, arrived in a stack of golden rings and stars, sided with a carafe of roasted red pepper aioli for dipping. The Hummus Plate came with a dollop of hummus, chilled pita triangles, a sprinkling of feta cheese, pink pickled onions and cucumber slices.
The calamari was piping hot and paired well with the creamy roasted pepper dipping sauce.
But the Hummus Plate was a tad on the disappointing side, with its chilled wedges and ho-hum dip. And while the pickled onions were a taste bud interest, the plate combination felt disjointed. I couldn’t figure out, for instance, how to combine the pita wedges with hummus, onions and feta in a satisfying way.
The Halibut and Chips, on the other hand, was a lunchtime treat. Three pieces of golden fish topped a bed of french fries. Coleslaw, tartar sauce and a carafe of ketchup rounded out the dish.
The ravioli was something of a sleeper dish. It arrived innocently enough: a scattering of cream-covered ravioli. But once those raviolis were sliced into, the world went beety. A scarlet-hued filling of roasted beets and goat cheese melded sweet and savory under that cream sauce. I’d try it again.
Other observations: While reservations aren’t a necessity, the staff highly recommends them. And while it’s fine dining, linen style, it doesn’t feel overdone or constricted. The staff was pleasant and helpful. And, even with a house full of other lunchtime diners, we were able to enjoy a noon meal in about an hour, making it doable for a weekday lunch.
The restaurant’s menu changes with the seasons, a reflection of locally sourced foods.
Also, look for the lunchtime Rose Plate specials, which can be had for $5.25 on weekdays. A sampling of plates include spaghetti and meatballs, Shepherd’s Pie, Beef Stroganoff and meatloaf.
Menu highlights beyond what I tried: While a dinner of Grilled Salmon with Mushrooms, Leeks and Spinach Sauce ($21) whets my appetite, I’m also intrigued with the restaurant’s wine and whiskey tasting events.
On Tuesday nights, for a $15 tasting fee, dinners can try four 2-ounce glasses of wine, served by wine representatives or distributors. The restaurant carries only Northwestern and Californian wines.
And on Wednesday evenings, whiskey tasting ($3 to $13.60 for a 1-ounce shot), offers up a chance to try, say, a $120 bottle of The Macallan Single Malt Scotch Whisky for $13.60, although most shots are in the $3 to $5 range.
Cost: For the lunch menu, figure $5 to $9 for an appetizer and $8 to $14 for an entree. The appetizers are about the same for dinner while entrees run $14 to $25.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Mondays; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; and 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday for dinner.
Contact: 360-906-1101.
Where: 1101 Officers Row, Vancouver.
Health score: The Grant House received a 10 for its Aug. 17 inspection. Zero is a perfect score. Clark County Public Health closes restaurants that score 100 or higher. For information, call 360-397-8428.
